Thursday, December 29, 2011

How to Use a Circular Saw - Shop Class Basics

Lowe's Shop Class Basics teaches you how to use a circular saw safely and properly. Always wear eye and ear protection. Adjust your blade so it only extends about 1/4" below the material. Check that the blade guard is functioning properly. Use both hands to guide the saw. Start the saw first, then move the saw into the material. There are two types of cuts: cross cuts and rip cuts. Cross cuts go across the grain and rip cuts go with the grain. For cross cuts, you can use a square cut jig to give you a straight cut. When cutting plywood, you can use a 1x4 board as a guide. Clamp it to the board and make sure it is straight and even. Find circular saws and other power tools at www.Lowes.com Watch the Shop Class Basics video on How to Use a Miter Saw: www.youtube.com

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Thursday, December 15, 2011

Freud LU85R012 12-Inch 96 Tooth ATB Crosscutting Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating

!9#:Freud LU85R012 12-Inch 96 Tooth ATB Crosscutting Saw Blade with 1-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating

Brand : Freud
Rate :
Price : $112.49
Post Date : Dec 16, 2011 07:29:36
Usually ships in 24 hours



This superior carbide-tipped blade gives glass-smooth finishes when crosscutting hardwoods and softwoods, so no sanding is required. What makes this blade so special is the unique side grinding of each tooth. The teeth actually polish the material as the blade cuts, and new laser-cut anti-vibration slots practically eliminate the vibration that resonates in standard blades. With a finish this perfect you wont need stabilizers! .116 kerf 1" arbor

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Tuesday, December 6, 2011

One-Man Crosscut Saw

!9#:One-Man Crosscut Saw

Brand : Putsch
Rate :
Price :
Post Date : Dec 06, 2011 20:12:07
Usually ships in 1-2 business days



Perfect for timber framing, log building, or any heavy cutting job. Use the starting teeth to introduce a kerf, then the 3 TPI main teeth, which cut on both the push and pull stroke, to quickly slice through the toughest jobs. This heavy-duty, hand-hammered German saw has a 32" blade.

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Friday, December 2, 2011

One-Man Crosscut Saw

!9# One-Man Crosscut Saw

Brand : Putsch | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Dec 03, 2011 01:54:05 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days


Perfect for timber framing, log building, or any heavy cutting job. Use the starting teeth to introduce a kerf, then the 3 TPI main teeth, which cut on both the push and pull stroke, to quickly slice through the toughest jobs. This heavy-duty, hand-hammered German saw has a 32" blade.

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Thursday, November 17, 2011

Lessons For a Greenhorn

!9# Lessons For a Greenhorn

[if ]
[endif]

My name is Les McMillan, and the following lesson took place in 1951.

I was a 20 year old greenhorn logger, working at a camp on Vancouver Island. I had been promoted to be the 'bullgang chaser' the first day on the job. (See my story 'The Rigger and the Greenhorn'). It was only a few days later that Bill, the rigger, hollered out " Hey boys, any of you assholes know how to do an eye splice?" The rest of the crew were greener than me, so no one responded.

I said "I've watched the guys doing an eye splice a couple of times. It's 'over one and under two', isn't it?"

"By God", he said, "yes it is. Let's see how much you learned!" With Bill's help, we took railway spikes and spiked the 3/4 inch line (steel cable) to a stump. He handed me a marlin spike and a small sledge hammer and showed me where to start.

Bill gathered the crew around and told them to watch what we were doing because being able to splice a line separated a logger from a greenhorn. I made a few mistakes, easily corrected by Bill, and eventually had the eye splice done. It's a bit tricky because you must go over one strand and under two strands three times. The first time is easy, but the second and third time can be difficult. The finished eye met Bill's expectations, so he clapped me on the back and said, " By God, we'll make a logger out of you yet! I'm going to promote you to be the bullgang 'hooker'!"

I was pretty excited because that's about as far as you can go. Next step would be a rigger, and I was a long way from climbing and topping a 135 foot spar tree. As well, it meant a big raise in pay for me, so I was a happy guy.

We had been coiling lines into the back of a dump truck and taking them to the site of the next setting to be logged. I noticed that there was no spar tree where the landing was to be, and asked Bill what we would do about that. He told me that there was a good standing spar tree at a setting that had just been logged, and we would use that. He explained that we would fall that tree, drag it to our setting and raise it here. I was flabbergasted!

"Do you mean to tell me that you can lift a huge tree like that up and make it stand there and be a spar tree? "Sure, ." he replied. "It's a piece of cake. We do it all the time." To prove his point, we drove to where this tree was standing and had a look. Bill had arranged for a bulldozer to smooth out the area where the tree was to fall.

He had two old Swedish hand fallers there to drop the tree. I asked them if they were sure they could drop the tree in the bulldozed area, and one of them told me to jam a stick in the ground about 100 feet out from the base of the tree. That was to be their target!

It was a huge fir tree, about 4 feet or more in diameter and about 135 feet tall. The Swedes sawed where the undercut was to be with a two man crosscut handsaw and then chopped out the undercut with double-bitted axes that were sharp as a razor. They used the axe handle as a sighting tool to be sure the undercut was exactly where they wanted it. They then proceeded to saw the backcut, using steel wedges to prevent the saw from being pinched and to wedge the tree in the right direction.

"Timber!", they hollered, and the tree started down. Since there were no limbs to slow it's fall, that tree landed with a terrific thump, right on the stick I had placed in the ground. One old Swede looked at me with a huge grin on his face, and said " Ya, young feller, we do okay, you think?" I was impressed, and told them so, but I had misgivings about the way the tree landed.

I told Bill that it landed pretty heavily and probably cracked or broke upon impact. "That's easy to check out, " he says, "have you got a pocket watch?" Most loggers carried a "Pocket Ben" watch in their watch pocket, so I took mine out and handed it to Bill. He told me to put my ear up against the butt of the tree while he walked to the top end, 135 feet away, and held the watch against the wood. I could hear that watch going "tick, tock, tick, tock" as if it were right next to my ear!

I was amazed! Bill explained that if the tree was cracked or broken, the sound of the watch would veer off at the crack and wouldn't be heard at the other end. Pretty smart for an old bush logger!

The bulldozer dragged the tree to the other setting and we proceeded to raise and rig it. It was a 'piece of cake' to Bill, but a huge lesson for this greenhorn logger. Raising a 135 foot spar tree is something most loggers would have no idea what to do, but I was there, I watched and learned, and became a better logger for it.

If I could go back and do it again, I'd be there in a heartbeat!!!


Lessons For a Greenhorn

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Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Collecting Antique Axes

!9# Collecting Antique Axes

[if ]
[endif]

Edge tools are among the earliest tool forms, with surviving primitive axes dated to 8000 B.C.. Early axes were made by "wrapping" the red hot iron around a form, yielding the eye of the axe. The steel bit, introduced in the 18th century, was laid into the fold at the front and hammered into an edge. The side opposite the bit was later extended into a poll, for better balance and to provide a hammering surface.

The handles took on a variety of shapes, some indicative or origin, others relating to function. The length of the handle had more to do with the arc of the swing that was required. Felling axes took a full swing and therefore needed the longest handles. Early axes have their handles fitted through the eye from the top down and the handles remain in place by locking into the taper of the eye, so they can be removed for sharpening.

Later axes, however, have their handles fit through the eye from the bottom up, and have a wedge driven in from the top. This permanently locks the handle to the axe and was much preferred by American woodsmen. Many axes found today had been discarded because the handle was split or broken off. In most cases they can be bought at a fraction of their value and, with another handle, can be restored to their original condition. Most axe collectors have a stock of older flea-market handles that they use for this restoration. Like plane blades, axe handles might have been replaced two or three times throughout the life of the tool. As long as the handle is "proper," meaning, the right shape and length for its function, it won't detract that much from its value.

Pricing of antique axes runs the entire gamut from a few dollars to several hundred. Examples of well-made axes would include the Plumb, White, Kelly, Miller and numerous others. Beyond these were axes of sometimes lesser quality, but built to a price, and sold by the thousands. Exceptional examples might include handmade axes, possibly from the local blacksmith, or from a factory that specialized in the handmade article, regardless of price.

There are several types of axes out there such as:

SINGLE BIT FELLING AXE:

This axe is considered the workhorse of the axe family. It is a simple design, varying from a 2 ½ lb. head used by campers to the 4 ½ to 7 lb. head used for forest work. There are heads used in lumbermen's competition that are up to 12lbs.. With the advent of the two-man crosscut saw, and later the power chain saw, tree no longer are taken down by axes. The axe is more a utility tool for clearing branches off the downed tree, and splitting firewood.

DOUBLE BIT FELLING AXE:

Double bit axes always have straight handles, unlike any other modern axe. Almost all axe handles are hickory. Hickory has both strength and spring, and was found very early to be the best for axe handles. Starting in the late 1800's a number of axe manufactures adopted intricate logos that were embossed or etched on the head of the axe. Almost 200 different styles have been identified to date and these have also become an interesting collectible.

BROAD AXE:

The broad axe is not as common as the felling axe, and is a lot larger. It's purpose was to square up logs into beams. It used a much shorter swing that the felling axe, therefore required a much shorter handle. The identifying feature of many of these axes is the chisel edge, that allowed the back side of the axe to be dead flat. Because of that, it posed a problem of clearance for the hands. To keep the hands from being scraped, the handle was canted or swayed away from the flat plane of the axe. This is the feature that should always be looked for when buying a broad axe. If the edge is chisel-sharpened, then the handle should be swayed. As with the felling axe, the broad axe heads have a variety of patterns, mostly a result of geographical preference.

GOOSEWING AXE:

The goose wing axe is one of the most artistic looking tools out there, and it takes it's name from its resemblance to the wing of a goose in flight. It functions exactly as the chisel-edged broad axe, except that the American version has the handle socket more heavily bent or canted up from the plane of the blade. These axes are large and difficult to forge. Many show cracks and repairs and an original handle is rare. Signed pieces, particularly by American makers, mostly Pennsylvania Dutch, are considerably more valuable. Also of importance is the difference in value between American and European axes, the American ones being worth considerably more. A few well-known 19th century American makers whose names appear imprinted on axes are Stohler, Stahler, Sener, Rohrbach, Addams, and L.& I.J. White.

SHIPWRIGHT'S OR MAST AXE:

This axe is used for shaping ships' masts and timbers, and is usually ground on both sides. It varies in length base on local usage. The double pointed ears or lugs are common with this axe.

COOPER'S AXE:

This axe has a lighter handle socket, well canted and carries a very short handle. Although the general differentiation between an axe and a hatchet is that an axe is used with two hands and a hatchet with one, the cooper's axe is one of the exceptions to the rule. It was used mostly for shaping barrel staves, and was almost always used with one hand while the other held the stave.

COACHMAKER'S AXE:

This is an asymmetrical axe used for shaping coach parts in almost a paring manner. The heads vary in size, some styles taking on a "bearded" effect, hence the nickname "bearded axe." These axes are almost exclusively of European origin.

ICE AXE:

Back in the day, ice was harvested in the winter from ponds and lakes and stored in ice-housed for summer use. This was an important winter cash crop for many farmers. There was a whole family of tools developed to serve this industry, among them was the ice axe. Again, local patterns create a variety of styles.

FIRE AXE:

These are sought-after collectibles, because many of the older ones have the fire company's monogram on the head. All have rear pikes used for clearing openings or creating ventilation.

MORTISING AXE:

The blade on these axes are long and narrow to accommodate the size of the mortise hole it was designed to cut, most often for post and beam construction or for post and rail. Some have double bits, one bit sized for the length and the other for the width of the hole.

TRADE AXE:

Trade axes were originally brought over by the French and Spanish and later by the English and were traded to the Indians who held them in very high regard. They were poll-less and small enough to be carried at the belt and used with one hand. The larger variety were known as squaw axes and were used by the women for chopping wood.

TURF or BOG AXE:

Used for cutting turf and peat, these axes are not heavy enough to cut wood.

HATCHET:

Hatchets are small axes used with one hand.


Collecting Antique Axes

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Wednesday, November 2, 2011

The 2011-2016 Outlook for Hand-Operated Carpenter Crosscut Saws and Ripsaws in the United States

!9# The 2011-2016 Outlook for Hand-Operated Carpenter Crosscut Saws and Ripsaws in the United States

Brand : | Rate : | Price : $495.00
Post Date : Nov 03, 2011 06:16:58 | Usually ships in 24 hours


This econometric study covers the latent demand outlook for hand-operated carpenter crosscut saws and ripsaws across the states and cities of the United States. Latent demand (in millions of U.S. dollars), or potential industry earnings (P.I.E.) estimates are given across some 5,100 cities in the United States. For each city in question, the percent share the city is of it's state and of the United States is reported. These comparative benchmarks allow the reader to quickly gauge a city vis-a-vis others. This statistical approach can prove very useful to distribution and/or sales force strategies. Using econometric models which project fundamental economic dynamics within each state and city, latent demand estimates are created for hand-operated carpenter crosscut saws and ripsaws. This report does not discuss the specific players in the market serving the latent demand, nor specific details at the product level. The study also does not consider short-term cyclicalities that might affect realized sales. The study, therefore, is strategic in nature, taking an aggregate and long-run view, irrespective of the players or products involved.

This study does not report actual sales data (which are simply unavailable, in a comparable or consistent manner in virtually all of the cities in the United States). This study gives, however, my estimates for the latent demand, or the P.I.E., for hand-operated carpenter crosscut saws and ripsaws in the United States. It also shows how the P.I.E. is divided and concentrated across the cities and regional markets of the United States. For each state, I also show my estimates of how the P.I.E. grows over time. In order to make these estimates, a multi-stage methodology was employed that is often taught in courses on strategic planning at graduate schools of business.

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Friday, October 28, 2011

The 2011-2016 World Outlook for Hand-Operated Carpenter Crosscut Saws and Ripsaws

!9#The 2011-2016 World Outlook for Hand-Operated Carpenter Crosscut Saws and Ripsaws

Brand :
Rate :
Price : $795.00
Post Date : Oct 28, 2011 19:24:29
Usually ships in 24 hours



This econometric study covers the world outlook for hand-operated carpenter crosscut saws and ripsaws across more than 200 countries. For each year reported, estimates are given for the latent demand, or potential industry earnings (P.I.E.), for the country in question (in millions of U.S. dollars), the percent share the country is of the region and of the globe. These comparative benchmarks allow the reader to quickly gauge a country vis-a-vis others. Using econometric models which project fundamental economic dynamics within each country and across countries, latent demand estimates are created. This report does not discuss the specific players in the market serving the latent demand, nor specific details at the product level. The study also does not consider short-term cyclicalities that might affect realized sales. The study, therefore, is strategic in nature, taking an aggregate and long-run view, irrespective of the players or products involved.

This study does not report actual sales data (which are simply unavailable, in a comparable or consistent manner in virtually all of the 230 countries of the world). This study gives, however, my estimates for the worldwide latent demand, or the P.I.E., for hand-operated carpenter crosscut saws and ripsaws. It also shows how the P.I.E. is divided across the world's regional and national markets. For each country, I also show my estimates of how the P.I.E. grows over time (positive or negative growth). In order to make these estimates, a multi-stage methodology was employed that is often taught in courses on international strategic planning at graduate schools of business.

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Saturday, October 15, 2011

AGE MD14-108 Crosscut 14"X108t ATB 1" Bore

!9# AGE MD14-108 Crosscut 14"X108t ATB 1" Bore

Brand : Amana | Rate : | Price : $102.58
Post Date : Oct 15, 2011 16:40:46 | Usually ships in 2-3 business days


This blade is designed for smooth crosscuts in a variety of materials from hardwoods, softwoods and sheet stock including chipboard. The alternate top bevel and 10 degree hook angle provide a smooth surface and a long cutting life.

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Monday, October 3, 2011

Important accessories for table saws

!9# Important accessories for table saws

[if ]
[endif]

When using table saws, there are practical accessories that make the job safer. Take for example a feed. Use this table saw accessory for supporting long boards or plywood. First, roller stands, it seemed that the only possibility, but there are currently several commercially available feed, proves to be simpler and more efficient to operate.

With a nozzle is also helpful. The table saw for ripping long boards or plywood, used thisAccessories to make activities easier and safer. Although most of the shops are built, there are commercially available.

And 'normal table saws fence leaders, who have run the table in front of the back. This is actually parallel to the blade-section plane. The fence and the blade spacing is adjustable to determine where the incision can be made on the piece.

These guides are still rip fence fence regarding their purpose as a guideTool to the workpiece during the rip-cutting. Although it is common for table saws have a fence, there are now high-end saws sold without a fence. This means that you, the user can select the type of fence that is suitable for the task.

Also useful in the ironing machines. These are versions of the vertical groove. If a saw, circular saw blade is held down, you can collect pieces of wood. And 'mounted on a fence, and with clips or magnets. Sinceis another way, the wheels are used instead of a spring mechanism, press the piece as a guided tour past the blades.

In the meantime, keep some 'against a wooden fence, grooves do the trick. What a series of feathers or a feather is used. These are then taken through the bracket slot machine gun, extension bars or high-strength magnets.

A subset of the fence is a piece of wood attached to the fence so that the socket with the right to cut inside. Then the commonNut is cut by the blade.

Crosscut sleds are basically to be set for the performance of the piece on the blade at an angle of 90 degrees. This allows repeated accurate cuts at an angle in common use. The runners then slides into the slot machine guns, guided by the slide. Although this product can be purchased, is normally regulated in the retail client's wishes. A table usually has one or two slots, which would be from front to back, parallel to the blade-section plane. Miter grooves or slots areto guide and position angle of attack is, slide miter, or a counter machine gun. This is then set at about 90 ° on the polished blade of the plane, which intersect at right angles to the workpiece. You can also adjust for miter cuts, which are at a precisely controlled angle.

Tenon Jigs are devices that keep the piece vertically. This allows you to cuts that would take place until the end. It 'also pin. Although these can be purchased, it is usually the store. A fenceor slot machine gun has the task of guiding pins masks.

Most table saws have replaceable inserts in the table, where the blade would project. The supplements, which can be purchased are usually made of metal. However, no gaming operations as seen in the layer of material such as wood or plastic. Once inserted, the game is introduced, the blade increases in use and created a slot. This ensures that slots do not have gaps around the blade.

These areBacklash-free inserts, which prevents tearing, is some support for the wood fibers near the blade, the promotion of very clean cuts. There are other applications that are created or purchased, as you can put the nut.

Table saws on the market in the United States are made with stacked blade socket generally compatible uses. This type of set consists of two blades using several external and internal chip-cutter for cutting dados their width. These are groups of stacked dadosis available in diameter from 8 inches to 6 inches. For saws with 1 ½ HP or not HP, 8-inch stacked dados September are not recommended.

Knives splitter or splitter are vertical projections on the back of a blade has been removed. It can be a fin or pin. There is also a smaller width than the blade. However, it is located directly in line with the blade of the above. And 'the division that prevents rotation of the cutting of the piece, avoiding setbacks. ThenClosures can be installed by a grenade. Without mechanisms that have teeth that are designed to bite into the wood, thus preventing kickback.

Although many continue chipping superfluous, the majority of injuries through the use of chainsaws in the absence caused by a Splitter. This is a safety device when using table saws, especially for inexperienced users. So, regardless of experience, incidents of his absence for a serious injury or even death.

There are severalForms of the fragments, which in turn includes as a guard for the saw blade. It can also be a fin or pin can be attached to contributions. Splitter can be purchased or made from metal, wood or plastic.


Important accessories for table saws

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Sunday, September 25, 2011

The 2009-2014 Outlook for Hand-Operated Carpenter Crosscut Saws and Ripsaws in Japan

!9# The 2009-2014 Outlook for Hand-Operated Carpenter Crosscut Saws and Ripsaws in Japan

Brand : | Rate : | Price : $495.00
Post Date : Sep 26, 2011 02:38:40 | Usually ships in 24 hours

This econometric study covers the latent demand outlook for hand-operated carpenter crosscut saws and ripsaws across the prefectures and cities of Japan. Latent demand (in millions of U.S. dollars), or potential industry earnings (P.I.E.) estimates are given across some 1,000 cities in Japan. For each city in question, the percent share the city is of it's prefecture and of Japan is reported. These comparative benchmarks allow the reader to quickly gauge a city vis-a-vis others. This statistical approach can prove very useful to distribution and/or sales force strategies. Using econometric models which project fundamental economic dynamics within each prefecture and city, latent demand estimates are created for hand-operated carpenter crosscut saws and ripsaws. This report does not discuss the specific players in the market serving the latent demand, nor specific details at the product level. The study also does not consider short-term cyclicalities that might affect realized sales. The study, therefore, is strategic in nature, taking an aggregate and long-run view, irrespective of the players or products involved.

This study does not report actual sales data (which are simply unavailable, in a comparable or consistent manner in virtually all of the cities in Japan). This study gives, however, my estimates for the latent demand, or the P.I.E., for hand-operated carpenter crosscut saws and ripsaws in Japan. It also shows how the P.I.E. is divided and concentrated across the cities and regional markets of Japan. For each prefecture, I also show my estimates of how the P.I.E. grows over time. In order to make these estimates, a multi-stage methodology was employed that is often taught in courses on strategic planning at graduate schools of business.

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Thursday, September 22, 2011

Building furniture without carpentry workshop

!9# Building furniture without carpentry workshop

[if ]
[endif]

If you start in woodworking is to follow the many paths, forks in the road, dead ends and joins. Cause is a journey that our ancestors would earn with the help of a living, breathing, a teacher, a grandparent, a teacher of business.

Unfortunately, the guides are less numerous than today. And so you have to help people like me left. Since the production of meat by-products, is not a pretty sight. Like wood-education books, magazines, television and an occasionalClass is a slow way to learn a complex task. In fact, many woodworkers to spend a long time (years!) simply accumulating machines and equipment before they can build a single piece of furniture. And when they start to build it, they inevitably that actually need different tools and machines to do what you really want to do.

So buy more tools and machines.

I want something important that has not said much to know: Is there another way to start buildingFurniture. You do not need a saw table, a workbench or even a business. There is no need to spend $ 1,000 to build your birdhouse before. You can go home in the morning at the center and build something in the garage the same day.

I'm not talking about the construction of garbage, either. The difference between a good set of shelves and looking for a collection of 2x4s is not evil a circular saw. The difference is prudence, sound design and just a little 'patience.

Is necessary to create beautiful furniturethree things: a handful of decent tools that will not be too great, always starts something and help build realistic projects.

The heart of the "I can do this," a free 79 page manual is for you popularwoodworking.com icandothat / you choose to provide all the tools and skills necessary to cut the wood and the parts are available for download. The other main component - project plans - can be found on many sites woodworking.

Finally, we believe thattoo large for this approach to build, how to improve your skills. I bet you want a table saw one day. And a drill. And a smoothing plane. When that day comes, there are also a house full of well-proportioned, well-constructed projects under the belt. They will be ready for these great instruments, and gentle learning curve shorter.

If all this sounds like something that a group of idealists, a meeting of corporate strategy cooked, then you are wrong. Although I hadtraining in carpentry from my father and grandfather, I started building furniture on my back porch in Lexington KY, with a similar set of tools. Probably the only big difference is that I (at the time I did not know, for example) a circular saw instead of a miter saw. I built a lot of stuff with my simple structure - a few things we have today and a couple of things long since given up on the sidewalk.

So that, dear reader, is a valid path.

My only regret is that belowI hope that this handbook (or a master carpenter) to make my trip was easier.

Rules for Tools
I'm not an emotional type. I do not understand the nostalgic high school, my first car and my first dog. I do not know a lot of hugs from family holidays to the meetings. But I have the utmost respect and affection for my instruments. The cure is to give tools easily flow in the things that you build with them. If none of the tools in the kit we recommend disposable, and if you're in good hands, They will take.

First, looking at the list of tools in the box on the previous page. You probably have at least some of these tools already, even if you are a resident apartment. The rest can be purchased at any home center with a minimum investment of time. But before you rush out and spend your money beer, take a moment to read my tool buying philosophy.

You want to be careful when buying tools because these tools should make the most of your life. It will not be replacedthese tools with sophisticated machinery, whether to advance your skills, so that you do not want to buy the cheaper instruments displayed in the tool magazine.

So what's wrong with $ 39 puzzle? Everything. Chances are the motor is too weak, the bearings are (even if it is carrying) is thin and the electronics are poorly insulated. Slide the tool is a bit 'heavy, and - no lie - caught fire.

This means that you also want the tools to avoid gimmicks and many are loaded with features (with the pricetag match). In general, the tools with lasers, levels, bracelets, are micro-adjustable doo-fathers and digital displays are not necessary for accurate work. In fact, it could actually make life harder for you.

So I recommend you do two things. First, before you go shopping, visit toolseeker.com and navigate, so you can see what brands and models that are out there. Toolseeker.com also help to understand what to expect for the price. Secondly, when you go shopping, look forTools brand, but choose a smaller version of the trademark instrument.

Here's an example: Suppose you want to buy a sander, and you want the Porter-Cable brand. The company offers the 343 model for $ 69 and $ 79 for 344. The more expensive model has variable speed. And while a variable speed may seem useful, but does not make sense in a grinding machine, really. Skip it and spend $ 10 on wood, glue and finish.

This philosophy extends to the blades, drill bits and sandpaper. Buy BrandName. Nothing is more expensive than sandpaper cheap, bargain no-name blades or drill. But do not buy fancy professional equipment with plastic enclosure and flashy graphics. Flashy graphics are designed to impress the boys on the site. At home, you will impress only the family dog.

Once you have your tools at home, treat them like pieces of the True Cross. Do not let your tools rust. Rust spreads like a cancer in ferrous materials (iron and steel) and can make your measurementscutting tools and hard to use. There are a lot of products out there, to prevent and remove rust, but the best thing is not on the shelf: a small box of supervision.

When you are done with an instrument, clean the metal surfaces - in particular the cutting surface - with a rag that has been wet with WD-40. Keep the cloth in the nearby (mine is seven years) and replace it with a spray of WD-40 when it is dry. Clean your instrument does two things: First, remove the dustby the instrument. The dust can carry salt. Salt attracts water. The combination of salt and moisture begins to break the iron and steel tools.

Second, by helping to prevent rust WD-40, forming a thin protective layer, although one that must be constantly renewed, to be effective. Other people denigrate WD-40 (I once did). Ignore them.

Buy Materials
Another important part of the philosophy that all materials come from the center of a house: "I can do it." It is not necessaryBuy the materials are there, but do not migrate from some exotic wood suppliers, learn the language of wood and spend a ridiculous sum for a Purple Heart wood planter box.

The truth is that you can find many beautiful things with the run-of-the-mill (literally) to build a house of wood and plywood. You just need to learn how to shop.

Let's talk about home-center wood. In general there are a lot of wood - White Pine, YellowPine, spruce and hemlock, perhaps. This is the best thickness for the construction of 2x4s, 2x6s, 2x8s sold and so on. There are times when you want to go, to overcome this stuff, but if you do this, you must know that it is usually too wet to be used immediately for furniture. If you are buying timber, take it home, cut it in length and can be dry for a few weeks before in the end you will be glad you're diving.

In addition to timber, isHardwoods and conifers, which are thinner and designed for trimwork in a mobile home and also be used. This stuff has to do 3 / 4 "thick and cut into large pieces comfortable size. But you must be very careful about it. Why?

Well, first of all, these things will be much more expensive than wood in an old warehouse in wood - the convenience of the costs, I tell you. And although it is quite expensive, are really flat and clear the table as well as expensive warped, split and knottyones.

Sun sort through the pile of wood in the whole ticket search. Yes, it might have looked like dirt from the employees get, but if you pay is $ 30 for a 1x12 pine, then by God, you should get the best of the store. When you're done, reassemble the business of the wooden pole so it's better than you found it.

What kind of wood furniture was later discovered to be removed at home? For the most part, a lot of pine, red oak, poplar, maple and poplar, sometimes. You can get a lotThe good thing about this wood, especially when you are ready to paint your projects (we are finishing the next lesson) are.

Also do not forget to visit the section shape of the Center House. You can create a lot of store-bought furniture design for the building - you do not have a router. And the nice thing is that most stores sell the molding from the linear foot, so you can cut what you need right there (and get some practice with a hand saw).

As far as connectors go, letI put a little bug in your ear. The worst thing you can do is buy screws and other fasteners in small boxes and plastic bags. You know, those five wood screws in them. These are made mostly of soft metal and cost too much. If I buy the screws in a home center, buy a box of 100 or more, which are intended for building owners. Heck, I would buy drywall screws before I would buy the plastic baggie.

As for the hill to go, you are inGood luck. Home centers have a wide choice of glue. Just do not buy things without a name. It would be nice. Maybe not. The brand name (Titebond, ProBond, gorillas) do not cost much more.

Finishing materials
When it comes to finishing materials to you at very lucky when it comes to a mall at home. If you know what to look for you almost every type of surface you want to achieve.

Let me say, paint a word. Do not let magazines or bully other carpentersUse of color. Many excellent and well-made painted furniture (for example, almost every chair in Windsor of all time). I personally love the color in some parts. Allows graphic lines in a project are for real. Color that you can easily get the color exactly as you want. And it is an area that is difficult to destroy. In general, semi-gloss latex paint, which I find very well for the furniture. And 'robust, does not stink, the house is like the oil painting andeasy to clean.

But what happens if you do not like to paint? Once again, you're lucky. Centers to bring home a series of spots. And here's a trick that you do not hear much: you get to mix two (or three or more) points on the color you are looking for. Just be sure to oil-based stain oil-based stains and mix with water-based paints.

And while we are talking about patches, I recommend you avoid products that are stain and protect your project. This "one step" products are usuallyPoints only with a little binder 'more in them. They offer little protection for your project, and I do not think they are fine, either.

Instead, you should keep the wood with a sort of foil to protect finished. In general, there will be on three types of products in the home who find it.

Will Watco, Danish and tung oil. These are usually a mixture of boiled linseed oil and paint. It's OK stuff, but you need four or five layers to build a beautifulFilm.

Here you will find a lot of polyurethane. In general, I think polyurethane is harder than you need, well, you should not connect. So sometimes it can take a jacket. If you use polyurethane, be sure to sand the finish between your hands thoroughly with sandpaper # 320 or abrasive sponges.

You can also paint or spar varnish. This is good stuff. There is a bit 'as polyurethane, except that it is softer and easier to bond themselves. Buy a can of paint and a tin of paintThinner / mineral spirits (they are the same thing). Thin the paint with three parts of paint and some paint thinner and you can then do a nice thin layer with a rag. After three layers or so, then build a nice sheen. Just be sure to sand the surface between the layers.

Finally, a little paste wax and somehow apply to them. I like the thin synthetic steel wool, which is a gray pad. The gray pad is your smooth to the touch and the wax is the whole project a gooduniform gloss.

Do not forget your Workmate
The last important part of your toolkit is a companion work. It is a portable workbench that you are never too great, even if you become obsessed with benches, build 10 of them and write a book on it.

The Workmate is one of the greatest inventions of the woodwork of the 20 st Century. This is a great grip, a work table, a clamping surface, a step. With a fellow worker, you can work almost anywhere in your home or yard.

If you buy one,Get the most beautiful in the store (I know this contradicts my earlier suggestions instruments). The plastics are not so good. In fact, the best way to buy a take an old workmate from a garage sale. My Jimmy Carter was a center cost me $ 30 and even among dogs of plastic that are great for holding panels.

Now Get to Work
Once you buy your tools, choose a project and get your materials, you should immediately dive into the project. No matter how scary the structuralTrip, I promise you that most of the barriers are mentally in woodworking. The first step is always the hardest, and this is true when it comes to cutting your first look at the screw hole or sand-shading your first piece of the coating.

"I Can Do That 'Tool list
The foundation of '"I Can Do That" approach to the small number of tools needed to build good and stable mobile. Here is a list of basic equipment.

- 12 "Combination Square
- 16 'Metro
-Puzzle
- 10 "miter saw
- 7 1 / 4 "Circular Saw
- Drill
- Scratch awl and Brad awl
- File Bastard Cut
- Card
- Palm Grip Sander
- Block-level
- Combination Oil Stone
- Pocket hole jig or router
- 16 oz Hammer
- Nail September
- 4-in-1 Screwdriver
- Workmate
- F-style clamps


Building furniture without carpentry workshop

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Sunday, September 18, 2011

Two-Man Crosscut Saw

!9# Two-Man Crosscut Saw

Brand : Putsch | Rate : | Price :
Post Date : Sep 19, 2011 03:17:09 | Usually ships in 1-2 business days


  • 8-1/2" hardwood handles
  • Hand-hammered German saw
  • 48" blade

More Specification..!!

Two-Man Crosscut Saw

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Sunday, September 11, 2011

Onsrud Cutter CCTCG-10-098-60 10" CT CROSS CUT SAW BLADE TCG

!9# Onsrud Cutter CCTCG-10-098-60 10" CT CROSS CUT SAW BLADE TCG


Rate : | Price : | Post Date : Sep 11, 2011 20:18:42
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Sunday, September 4, 2011

The 2011 Report on Hand-Operated Carpenter Crosscut Saws and Ripsaws: World Market Segmentation by City

!9# The 2011 Report on Hand-Operated Carpenter Crosscut Saws and Ripsaws: World Market Segmentation by City

Brand :
Rate :
Price : $795.00
Post Date : Sep 04, 2011 23:45:39
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This report was created for global strategic planners who cannot be content with traditional methods of segmenting world markets. With the advent of a "borderless world", cities become a more important criteria in prioritizing markets, as opposed to regions, continents, or countries. This report covers the top 2000 cities in over 200 countries. It does so by reporting the estimated market size (in terms of latent demand) for each major city of the world. It then ranks these cities and reports them in terms of their size as a percent of the country where they are located, their geographic region (e.g. Africa, Asia, Europe, Middle East, North America, Latin America), and the total world market.

In performing various economic analyses for its clients, I have been occasionally asked to investigate the market potential for various products and services across cities. The purpose of the studies is to understand the density of demand within a country and the extent to which a city might be used as a point of distribution within its region. From an economic perspective, however, a city does not represent a population within rigid geographical boundaries. To an economist or strategic planner, a city represents an area of dominant influence over markets in adjacent areas. This influence varies from one industry to another, but also from one period of time to another.

In what follows, I summarize the economic potential for the world's major cities for "hand-operated carpenter crosscut saws and ripsaws" for the year 2011. The goal of this report is to report my findings on the real economic potential, or what an economist calls the latent demand, represented by a city when defined as an area of dominant influence. The reader needs to realize that latent demand may or may not represent real sales.

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Friday, August 26, 2011

In dealing with a cross cut sled-to-box joints

!9# In dealing with a cross cut sled-to-box joints

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A crosscut sled can be used for many applications of wood. Familiarity with him joint box is one of my favorites.

What you need:

A table knife with NUT.
A Cross Cut Sled
From 3 / 8 stop "X 3 / 8", "X 1 wooden Index
Pretty 3 / 8 "X is the desired stock level of a field box to the desired size.

Instructions for making box joints with a sledge Cross Cut:

Cut the soup into 4 parts. The shares will be cut into lengths of two sides ofand 2 each for the ends. This should be the length of the outer box. Set the blade to cut a NUT 3 / 8 "groove. Cut a groove in the ground with the blade slide NUT. Install 3 / 8" X 3 / 8 "X 1" indicates exactly 3 / 8 stop "away and parallel to the cut on the right side of the blade on the floor of the carriage. Adjust the height by adjusting the blade height of the floor transport and NUT 3 / 8 ". You can insert a piece of your 3 / 8 relevance to transport and carry the blade until it is even with thetop of the field.

Times over the stock photos and repeat other side. Do both sides the same way. Then trim the ends. This time, start by checking the closure of the camp next stop for the index. This is compensated for the cuts on the final pieces of the end 3 / 8 ", that can be addressed on the joints.


In dealing with a cross cut sled-to-box joints

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Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Types of hand saws and their use

!9# Types of hand saws and their use

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No matter how many saws, sometimes you just have a hand saw. But not all are created equal, and hand saws.

There are different saws for different jobs. In this article we take the various saws
Check with your local hardware store or home center and its applications. But first we want to discuss sawteeth. There are
Three things seen teeth, what about when you get to buy the types of hand saws:

Shape.The shape of the teeth is determined using the saw. For example, trapezoidal teeth for cutting against the grain, while tearing teeth suitable for cutting along the grain boundaries. September The set of teeth that are bent from the rest of the saw. Size. This is the number of teeth per inch (TPI) or dots per inch (PPI).

The shape and size of teeth is fixed for the purpose of the saw to dictate the most appropriate. There will be a look at seven differentSaws and their uses:

Coping saw. Coping saws are like puzzles. They are great for making curved cuts because of their thin sheets and fine tooth. Saw. Frames have been around a while ago, and have not changed much. This is one of the most valuable saws in the shop because of their versatility. The blades can be multi-blade circular saws, jig saws and cutting board can be changed in seconds. Ripsaw. The multiple tasks is high, straight teeth about 5 TPI. Multi-blade circular saws used to cut alongthe grain is not on them as a circular saw. Tenon. Backsaws are great for cutting dovetails for their fine-toothed (20 TPI). Japanese saw. Japanese blades are shaped differently than other saws. This is because Japanese Saws are designed to reduce the backward movement. Hand saws cut the forward stroke. Cutter. These saws are very thin, very sharp teeth that are great for cutting across the grain are. The The teeth are about 8 TPI. Panel. Panel sawsare designed for cutting plywood. It 'like a fox's tail, but with finer teeth.

Now you have an overview of the types of hand saws and their uses. It 'a good idea to keep different
Hand saws in your shop. Because of the noise factor, especially when this is about the laboratory is located in an apartment or a non-insulated garage. Hand saws are relatively inexpensive and, if done properly can last for many years.


Types of hand saws and their use

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Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Beta 426MD/SP10 Set of 10 426 Rotary Files, Made From Hard Metal, Cross Cut Hm4, in Metal Box

!9# Beta 426MD/SP10 Set of 10 426 Rotary Files, Made From Hard Metal, Cross Cut Hm4, in Metal Box

Brand : Beta Tools
Rate :
Price : $235.66
Post Date : Aug 04, 2011 03:18:21
Usually ships in 24 hours



Beta Utensili is a leading company in the production and sales of professional hand tools. The Ciceri family began producing tools in Northern Italy in the 1880s. Today, family owned Beta, or Beta Utensili is known for its direct involvement in Grand Prix racing, a relationship that dates back to the early 1970s. Research, development and quality. While nothing is perfect, we’re practicing. Accuracy, precision, rigor, quality, courage, style, consistency and innovation. To mould an idea, encourage it to its final outcome and after that better it still, Beta works daily, in close contact with end users, researching materials, design and constant improvement. Scrupulous control on each tool ensures its invariable quality.

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